Lianne Milton

Projects: El Barrio Chino

Before the Cuban Revolution, Barrio Chino was the largest Chinatown in all of Latin America. Today, the neighborhood is a mere glimpse from its early years. There are roughly 300 Chinese-born Cubans that live on the island.

The Chinese came to Cuba in three waves.

First, as sugarcane laborers in the mid-19th century; second, as immigrants fleeing anti-Chinese sentiment in California in the late 19th century; and third, as people fleeing political and economic persecution in China in the early 20th century. They left their homeland for a better life only to find themselves in the transition of another revolution.

  
After the collapse of the Soviet Union, China rushed in hundreds of bicycles for transport around Havana. Today, there are thousands of Chinese-made bicycles peddling throughout the city.
  
In 1995, the Residencia del Anciano Chino opened its doors to serve the aging Chinese community. Most of the immigrants are now well into their 80s. They are the last of the Chinese-born immigrants in Cuba. Ten residents live at the home. Three had died since 2007.
     
  
The neighborhood now tries to attract tourists. Lanterns and golden dragons adorn Chinese restaurants along the short city block of Calle Dragones.
  
The Office of the Historian of the City of Havana, who oversees Barrio Chino’s renovation project, which includes the on-going restoration project of Old Havana, will begin construction in 2009 of the Confucius Institute, where it will also house the Chinese Culture Museum.
  
“There were many Chinese that traveled to Cuba with the dream of finding fortune,” said Cristina Apon Pena, a Chinese descendent who is the director of Residencia del Anciano Chino and manages Chinatown’s social work program, in Spanish. “They left behind young wives and babies in hopes of fulfilling that dream and returning to China soon.”
     
  
In 2004, the Cuban government organized a trip to the Canton province (Guangdong) of China to help the resident Chinese immigrants reunite with their families. But so much time passed that many felt disconnected with their families in China and the 13 immigrants returned to Cuba, to their home where they have lived since childhood.
  
At its height, the ethnic Chinese population in Cuba was about 40,000. There were three Chinese movie theaters, independent businesses, a bank, a theater that contracted Chinese performers and three Chinese newspapers, one of which still publishes today and celebrated its 80th anniversary last year.
  
The neighborhood now tries to attract tourists. Lanterns and golden dragons adorn Chinese restaurants along the short city block of Calle Dragones.
     
  
On some Saturday afternoons, tai chi students, wearing traditional clothing, practice in the street. Nowhere else on the island does one see a mix of cross-cultural influences than watching tai chi performed by Cubans.
  
On some Saturday afternoons, schools of tai chi students, wearing traditional clothing, practice in Plaza Vieja. Nowhere else on the island does one see a mix of cross-cultural influences than watching tai chi performed by Cubans.
  
On some Saturday afternoons, schools of tai chi students, wearing traditional clothing, practice in Plaza Vieja. Nowhere else on the island does one see a mix of cross-cultural influences than watching tai chi performed by Cubans.
     
  
Before the Cuban revolution, Barrio Chino was the largest Chinatown in all of Latin America. Today, the neighborhood is a mere glimpse from its early years.
  
Chinese-Cubans play mah-jong in a community center. At its height, the ethnic Chinese population in Cuba was about 40,000. There were three Chinese movie theaters, independent businesses, a bank, a theater that contracted Chinese performers and three Chinese newspapers, one of which still publishes today and celebrated its 80th anniversary last year.
  
Left: Chinese-Cubans eat lunch at a Chinese restaurant. They receive free daily meals. Most of the immigrants are now well into their 80s. They are the last of the Chinese-born immigrants in Cuba. Right: In the afternoon, the restaurant opens for the public.
     
  
The neighborhood now tries to attract tourists. Young Cuban women, dressed in Asian print tops or dresses with Mandarin collars, open menus to lure hungry tourists. Lanterns and golden dragons adorn Chinese restaurants along the short city block of Calle Dragones.
  
When he was just a boy in China, Abel Fung didn’t want to get on the ship to Cuba. But his parents made him go with them. His uncle said that Abel will come back to China. That was 60 years ago.
  
Left: Some Chinese learned Spanish from this Chinese-Spanish language dictionary.Right: Fong Quin Win was a photographer for a Chinese newspaper in Havana. He is one of thirteen residents of Residencia del Anciano Chino, a state-run residential home for the aging Chinese immigrants in Barrio Chino.
     
  
In 1995, the Residencia del Anciano Chino opened its doors to serve the aging Chinese community. Most of the immigrants are now well into their 80s. They are the last of the Chinese-born immigrants in Cuba. Ten residents live at the home. Three had died since 2007.
  
In 1995, the Residencia del Anciano Chino opened its doors to serve the aging Chinese community. Most of the immigrants are now well into their 80s. They are the last of the Chinese-born immigrants in Cuba. Ten residents live at the home. Today, there are about 300 Chinese-born immigrants who live throughout Cuba.